SE Asia 2017

South East Asia 2017 - Days 40 - 42 : Siem Reap to Bangkok to Singapore to Home


Again I am combining 3 days worth of travel into one blog post, as for us the "South East Asia Adventure" part of the trip ended on Day 39 in Siem Reap, and we were not planning to do a lot on these 3 days, except attend the Grand Prix practice in Singapore.  So we planned to do very little and not take a lot of photos.


Wednesday 13 September, fine, thunderstorm 34°

We had a bit of a sleep in ( compared to the previous 3 mornings ) and got up at 7:30am.  In another first we managed to make use of the breakfast that was included in our room rate at the hotel, and it was nice.  We went up to our room, packed and checked out at 9:30am.

Dom arrived and took us to the airport, via the western suburbs of Siem Reap; there is a lot of new building work going on in Siem Reap and the area between the old town and the airport is no exception.

We arrived at the airport at 10am, and because our check in wasn't open we grabbed a Starbucks drink in their outdoor seating area, then checked in at about 10:15am and through to the waiting lounge.  Siem Reap airport is a single level affair with no airbridges but is new and very cool.  We walked out and got on our AirAsia plane at 11:15am and took off at 11:45am ( early again ).  The flight was a little bumpy but not too bad, and we landed at Don Mueng Airport in Bangkok at 12:45pm.

During the flight their was an announcement that someone had stolen a headrest cover and if it wasn't returned then the security would be called when we landed and everyone would be searched.  So when the headrest was still missing when we landed ( apparently airlines ' lose ' lots of items off planes, including lifejackets, pieces of uniforms, and even the handsets that they use to make cabin announcements! ) the security arrived and we were allowed to leave the plane one row at a time, and had our bags searched on the way out.  We were near the front of the plane so I don't know if they found the thief or not.

Anyway we walked through to immigration and cleared through quite quickly ( compared to our first experience of Thai Immigration 5 weeks ago ), grabbed our bags and then went to arrange a taxi to our hotel ( a private car hire B700 / NZ$28 +we had to pay the driver for the toll road ( B70 )) .  We drew some Thai Baht from the money machine, and due to confusion over the currency conversion rate we managed to draw B20,000 / NZ$800, which was a bit more than we needed.  We grabbed some packaged sandwiches for our lunch, and ate them on the ride to the hotel.

It seemed a bit surreal to be back in land of motorways, tall buildings and noise after the last few days spent in the quiet, green jungle of Cambodia, but it is a necessary change.

Our car screamed down the motorway, battled the traffic, and eventually found the street / alley that our hotel was on, but by this stage our driver was in no mood to fight the traffic anymore, and effectively told us to get out and walk the last 100 metres to our hotel ( Pratunam Pavilion ) which was located near the end of a very narrow ally with market stalls on either side.  We checked in at 2pm and went up to our room.  The hotel and room were nothing flash, we had booked it more for it's location within walking distance of Ratchaparop Station, on the line to the Suvarnabhumi Airport, than for it's quality.  But as usual it had wifi, airconditioning and included breakfast and was only NZ$50.

We went out for a walk through the alleys around the hotel, and sorted out the route to the train station ( the street our hotel was on got narrow near the train line, then appeared to be a corridor through someones house, but popped out on a road next to the train tracks which led directly to the station.

We headed back to the main road ( Phetchaburi Road ) then went into a mall, which was mainly tech shops, but Liz managed to find a pharmacy with a sale on lipsticks, so she was happy while I wandered the 4 floors of camera and computer shops.

As we were thinking about leaving the heavens opened and there was another thunderstorm passing through, so we grabbed a drink and watched the rain out the window.  After about 45 minutes the rain eased off and we walked to the neighbouring mall, then we ventured out onto the street in the rain and walked around the corner, and across the canal to Central World ( we had visited here on our first pass through Bangkok, which felt like a lifetime ago, but was only 5 weeks ).

We walked around the mall, again it felt strange to be in a big western style mall, but it also felt normal.  We left after buying a few bits and pieces at 5pm and walked back to the hotel in the sunshine.  We chilled out in the room, then went downstairs to the hotel restaurant for tea, then back to the room.



Wednesday 14 September, fine, 32°

We surfaced at 7:30am, after both not having great sleeps.  The hotel seems to be full of people that like to wander the corridors late at night talking, and slamming doors.  This is the first time we have suffered from having a noisy hotel ( another bonus of travelling in the off season I guess ).  We headed up to the top floor for breakfast which again was quite busy, then back down to our room to pack.

We left the hotel at 9:15am, walked through to the train station and caught the airport train.  We arrived at the airport at 10am.  We headed up to the check in hall and checked in with Singapore Airlines, through immigration and customs, and then into the shopping mall that is the departures area.  We grabbed a drink then headed downstairs to our gate, and in another change to the norm our tickets were scanned as we went into the gate lounge, so they didn't need to be scanned as we got onto the plane.

We boarded at 11:45am and took off at 12:30pm for Singapore, again it was a bumpy flight with thunderstorms around and we landed at 3:30pm local time ( Bangkok time + 1hr ), off the plane, did immigration etc then down to the MRT station. We bought a 3 day tourist pass ( S$30 ea (including a S$10 deposit for the card ) / NZ$30 ), jumped on the MRT, changed at Tanah Merah and then got off at Lavendar, and walked the couple of hundred metres to our hotel ( Hotel Boss, a/c, wifi but no breakfast ) at 5pm. Checked in and up to our very modern room with a view out to the north.

We went for a walk around the area, walked through a little outlier of Little India (or Little, Little India as I call it ), passed the Masjid Sultan mosque then down through the little streets with colourful murals, and then headed west to Bugis MRT station.  Caught the train to Bayfront at the Marina Bay Sands, and walked through to Gardens by the Bay and to the Supertrees.  Then we waited for the sunset and for the lights in the trees at 7pm.  We stayed unti about 7:45pm then walked back across the bridge through the MBS and then down to the Casino at 8pm.  We made the usual donation to the tax coffers of Singapore, then headed to the basement of the MBS Shoppes for tea at the foodcourt.  Walked the length of the Shoppes to the MRT and then back to Lavendar to our Hotel at 9pm.



Friday 15th September, cloudy, rain, fine, 30°

We got up at 7:30am to the sound of thunder rolling around, then went out to a cafe ( Tolidos Espresso Nook ) near our hotel for breakfast. then back to the hotel at 10am.  Grabbed our gear for watching the Grand Prix then walked to the Suntec Centre where there was a ticket collection place for our GP tickets, but when we got there we were told we had to pick them up at the main collection venue at the Raffles Centre.  So we walked through the streets, skirting the GP track and barricades.  As we got near the Raffles Centre the heavens opened and the rain started.  We managed to get inside the building and up to the conference centre to pick up our tickets.

We walked to the Raffles Hotel for a look around ( most of it is closed for renovations ) and then headed downstairs to the foodcourt in the Raffles Centre to grab some lunch.  Back upstairs and out to the GP entry gates ( still raining, and the first time we have actually used our jackets that we have been carrying for 6 weeks ) and into the GP track at 2pm.  We walked through the middle of the track, bought a cap and a programme, and went to our seats in the Esplanade Waterfront Grandstand ( S$128ea ) next to Marina Bay.  We grabbed some drinks and settled in to watch the practice day; Ferrari's, Porshe's then the F1 cars.  Thankfully the rain stopped and the sun came out.

We grabbed some dinner at the nearby tent foodcourt at 6pm ( S$8 for a beer! ), then back to our seats to watch the Ferrari qualifying and the F1 Free Practice 2. Lots of fun to watch.  We left the grandstand at 10pm, walked back through the main part of the infield, watched a bit of One Republic on the Pedang Stage then headed to the City Hall MRT and back to Lavendar Station and our hotel at 11pm.


Saturday 16 Sept, cloudy, thunderstorms, fine, 31°

Slept in until 8:30am, walked down to the local McDonalds for breakfast at 9:30am then back to the hotel to pack for the last time.  We checked out at 10:45am and left our bags at the hotel.  We walked to Lavendar station and caught the train to Somerset Station on Orchard Road, went to Starbucks for a drink, then I stayed there to catch up on admin and blogs ( using the free wifi ) and Liz went off shopping.

After a couple of hours we walked up behind Orchard Road, through Emerald Place, with it's 2 storey terraced housing, then back to Somerset Station.  We jumped on the MRT and headed out to Bashan then the circle line to Marina Bay Sands, and then back to the hotel at 4:30pm

We grabbed a coffee in the hotel lobby and then grabbed our bags at 5:45pm, walked to Lavendar and MRT to Changi Airport, arrived at 6:30pm.  We checked in etc then through immigration ( no customs / bag searches until the gate lounge ).  We walked around the departure mall, tea at Burger King then through to our gate at 8:00pm, onto the plane at 8:45pm.  We managed to score seats immediately behind the bulkhead in the middle of the plane, with loads of legroom.  We took off late at 9:55pm and had a slightly bumpy flight back to Auckland, arrived at 10:30am.

Through customs etc and then we grabbed the bus to the domestic terminal, got a drink, got on our plane to Napier at 1:15pm, landed at 2:15pm, and then a taxi home.

So that is it 6 weeks, 6 countries, 6 flights, 8 buses, 3 trains, 2 boats, and many miles walked.
The lasting memory is of the people we met along the way; so happy and helpful.  And overall we were surprised how easy the trip was, given that we had not booked anything between our stays in Bangkok until we landed in Asia. 

Time to start saving to go back again...

South East Asia 2017 - Days 37 - 39: Siem Reap / Angkor


This blog post is a little different to the previous ones from our trip; if you want to read about what we did each day that information is at the bottom of this post, but I am combining our 3 days in Siem Reap in one post.

This post is mainly about photos of the stunning Angkor Archaeological Park ( which I refer to as Angkor in this post ), which we spent three days looking around, but only scratched the surface of the things to see.

And remember that these photo are straight of the camera and not processed in any way , so apologies if a few of them are not level, or a little dark or bright.

If you don't want to read the detailed description of what we did in our 3 days at Angkor, it can be summarised as:

up at 4am, tuk tuk to temples for sunrise, walked around temples, tuk tuk to hotel, lunch, rest, tuk tuk to temples for sunset, tuk tuk to hotel, dinner, bed


Sunday 10 September, fine, thundeclouds 32°

We were up at 4am and downstairs to meet Dom our tuk tuk driver at 4:30am.  Our breakfast box that we had been promised by the hotel was nowhere to be seen, so we will have to get something later.  Into the tuk tuk and we headed east through the new part of town to the Angkor Archaeological Offices, and into the lobby to buy tickets to access the temples.  We joined the queue for the 3 day pass ( each ticket type ( 1 day, 3 day or 7 day ) has it's own queueing area ).  We had to wait a few minutes for the ticket booths to open at 5am, and then after having our photos taken we got our 3 day passes for US$62 ea (which includes a donation to a childrens charity ).  The 1 day pass was US$37 and the 7 day pass was US$72.  The pass gives access to all the temples in the Archaeological Zone.

Back to the tuk tuk and off to Angkor Wat, via the main road from Siem Reap ( there are 3 roads that get used by the tuk tuk drivers to get out to the temples from Siem Reap, the main / old one ( Charles de Gaulle ) was the prettiest ). We arrived at the entry for Angkor Wat at 5:15am ( after a brief stop at the ticket checkers on the side of the road as we entered the zone ), showed our tickets, and walked across the moat.  The main bridge was being repaired at the moment so we are using a temporary pontoon bridge.

Just to set the scene a little bit for Angkor; every temple, restaurant area, and tourist spot has lots of people asking if you want a guide book for US$1 with information about all the temples ( the one they show you is nicely printed, the copy you get in a plastic wrap is a cheap photocopy ), people asking if you want a guide, people selling trinkets ( normally quite aggressively ) and young children selling postcards, badges etc.  After a while we found ourselves saying 'no' to these people without even listening to what they wanted.  It becomes a reflex action whenever someone says " Excuse me Sir... " or "Where are you from... ".  It does become a bit annoying after the 4th or 5th temple of being harassed, but it made us appreciate the couple of temples that we got to early before the hawkers had got going for the day, and we were greeted with peace and quite as we approached the temples.  And it was a small price to pay for the sights we were able to see.  Generally the guards did a good job of keeping the hawkers out of the temples themselves, but a couple of times the guards would 'helpfully' show us to a hidden spot in the temple ( like a small temple or photo spot ) and then want money for their help, so we started to view them as hawkers as well.

It was also interesting to watch the types of people that got targeted by the hawkers; I noticed that European looking people were asked once or twice if they wanted to buy something, whereas Japanese and Korean looking people were harassed much more aggressively, and often the person being harassed would give in after a few minutes.  Anyway back to the temples.

So into the Angkor Wat complex we went in the dark, with a small stream of people around us.  After crossing the moat we entered through the main doors in the outer wall and into the massive open area with the main temple in the distance.  We walked down the the walkway then I headed right to the South Reflecting Pool (SRP) and Liz when left to the North Reflecting Pool (NRP).  The 2 reflecting pools are about the same size and in the same location either side of the central approach to the temple, but most people looking for the iconic Angkor Wat photo at sunrise head to the NRP as this is the one that always has water in it, whereas the SRP dries up if there hasn't been any rain.  Given that we were in the wet season I new there would be water in both so I was happy to go to the less crowded SRP to shoot the sunrise.  I found my spot and waited and shot as the sun lit up the clouds behind the temple, and then when it was clear that we weren't going to see the sun in a hurry I headed over and found Liz at about 6am.  There were probably about 200 people at Angkor Wat for sunrise this morning, which is quiet compared the busy season of Dec / Jan / Feb apparently. 

We walked into the temple itself and walked around the vast complex of courtyards and corridors, and having decided not to wait in a queue to go to the very top of the temple we left at about 7am and walked over to the area where the shops and cafes were located, next to the NRP.  We had breakfast ( pancakes and coffees ) and then looked through the South Library building, then headed out and back across the moat to our tuk tuk ( Dom was having a snooze in the hammock that they all carry with them ).  We were doing the small loop of temples today so off we headed.

We headed out from the Angkor Wat carpark and north to enter Angkor Thom through the South Gate, and parked up next to the main entrance to Bayon, on it's east side.  This temple is best know for the many large faces carved on the sides of the temple.  Dom agreed to meet us about 500m away at the market / food area which we could see in the distance.

We went into Bayon and wandered through it's maze of corridor and hidden little courtyards and then up to the upper level where most of the faces can be seen.  The temple was quite busy even at 7:30am, and we walked around for a while then headed out through the north gate of the temple.  We followed the recommended route across the road and then along a raised walkway that lead to Baphuon Temple.  On the way we passed a couple of groups of gardeners / sweepers who appeared to be employed by the company that runs the temples ( Apsara ), and it is good to see that they want to keep the area as clean and tidy as possible.  It also seems that the people that they employ are the same people that live in the villages around the temples which is good to see as well.

We walked up and around Baphuan Temple and then walked through a small gate in the wall and through the bush and trees to Pimeanakas Temple ( which we couldn't climb due to repair work ) and then out the east side of the walled complex around Pimeanakas, and onto the Terrace of Elephants.  This terrace / walkway looks out over an open area in the forest in the centre of Angkor Thom, and also looks out to some small temples dotted around the grass area.  Angkor Thom was once a vast city with an enclosing wall and moat, with the Bayon Temple at it's centre and the Royal Palace / Pimeanakas Temple just to the north.  Presumably the whole inside of the enclosing wall of Angkor Thom was once free from the forest and was filled with houses and buildings which, being made of wood, are now long gone.

After exploring the north end of the Terrace of Elephants we grabbed a cold drink from a man in a van with a big chilly bin, and sat in the shade of a tree.  While we were there the 'ice truck' arrived with replacement ice and cooling pads for our man with the chilly bin.

We found Dom again at 9:30am ( although it feels like it should be nearly lunch time after our early start ) and we headed off again, out through the East Gate of Angkor Thom ( we stopped briefly to take some photos ), to a pair of temples about 300m past the gate.  These temples ( Chau Say Tavoda and Thommanon ) mirror each other on either side of the road, although Thommanon, on the north side of the road, is in the better condition of the two. We wandered around these temples avoiding the sun which was now beating down, and also avoiding the selfie takers but helping the people who wanted their photos taken.

Back to the tuk tuk and on to the next stop on our small loop: Ta Keo.  We didn't stop here for long; the temple was under reconstruction and we were also starting to feel the legendary temple fatigue after having visited 6 temples already this morning.  We walked up to the first level and walked around, but didn't climb any further. So back to the tuk tuk and on to a temple that we were both looking forward to: Ta Prohm. 

As soon as we walked in through the gate in the outer wall of Ta Prohm, at 10:30am, we landed in the middle of 2 large tour parties with their guides.  We tried to get ahead of them and walked off down the long roadway to the temple itself, but unfortunately encountered another tour party just entering the temple.  We battled our way around the temple, waiting as required to get photos without other people in them, but ultimately it was not a good experience being in among so many people ( there was even a put of pushing and shoving involved at a few doorways with people trying to keep up with their tour leaders ), so we decided to get through as quick as we could and come back early on Day 3 when we could hopefully get ahead of the crowds.  Despite the crowds Ta Prohm is a very different feeling temple being largely shaded by the trees that have grown inside and on the walls.

We exited the complex, at 11:30am at the opposite end to where we entered, and found Dom in his hammock again.  Off to the next temple on the loop which was Banteay Kdei.  Despite this being temple No 9 for the morning, and it being hot, and this being the last temple to visit on the small loop, it was one of my favourites for the day. After the chaos at Ta Prohm we pretty much had Banteay Kwei to ourselves.  This was another temple ( like Ta Prohm ) which is designed on a long east west walkway running right through the temple, with a small shrine right in the centre.  We walked right through the centre of the temple and then walked around the outside of the temple to get back to the entrance on the east side where we entered.  

We then wandered over the road and had a look at Srah Srang which is a rectangular man made lake or baray.  Back into the tuk tuk and we headed back into Siem Reap at 12:45pm.  We were a bit weary after walking a few kilometres through temples on our 7 hour tour, so we grabbed some lunch at a restaurant in town then went back to the hotel for a swim, and relaxed.

At 4:30pm Dom picked us up again and we headed to Phnom Bakheng, which is a temple located on top of a small hill ( in Cambodia where everything is flat any hill is significant ).  We walked up the track to the top of the hill ( about a 20 minute walk ) and then waited for a bit in the queue at the bottom of the temple steps.  Due to overcrowding at this temple in previous years they now limit the numbers on the temple to 300 at any time.  And as most people were heading up for the sunset, the passes for the temple were in high demand.  After about 15 minutes we got to the front of the queue and got our pass to go up the steps to the top.  We had a walk around on the flat top of the temple then found a spot to watch the sun sink.  There was a lot of cloud around so we weren't expecting much from the sunset, the sun disappeared behind clouds before it hit the horizon and then nothing much happened after that.  We waited as long we were able to before being kicked off the temple ( it was a bit strange that the temple is promoted as a sunset watching location, with sunset normally around 6, and to then close the temple and start kicking people off at 6, just when sunset is happening ).  

We walked off the temple at 6:15pm then back down the hill in the dark, back to Dom and he took us back to the hotel at 6:30pm.  We went for tea to Red Piano and then back to the hotel for bed.

A long but amazing day travelling around some stunning temples.  As one description of the Angkor area said, each of the temples we saw today on their own would be a major tourist attraction, but to have them within a short distance of each made the whole place more special.  And I enjoyed the drive between the temples as much as the temples themselves; beautiful forests with monkeys and oxen on the sides of the roads, glimpses of smaller temples in the forests, and the constant call of birds. 

OK, lets do it again on Day 2.


Monday 11 September, cloudy, fine 31°

We had a slight sleep in until 4:30am, then downstairs to meet Dom at 5am.  Again we headed to Angkor Wat to shoot the sunrise.  This time Liz headed to the SRP and I stayed in the middle of the walkway which leads to the temple.  I pretty much had the area to myself until people started to walk up to the temple after sunrise.   We grabbed some breakfast at a cafe by the NRP then headed back to the tuk tuk at 6:50am to start the large loop of temples.

Again we headed through Angkor Thom, but this time we exited by the North Gate to start the large loop of temples.  Our first stop was Prasat Preah Khan.  We had to wait a few minutes for it to open at 7:30am so we were chatting to the other early risers who were also waiting to get in ( and we kept seeing the same people all the way around our loop today ).

Once it opened we walked the short distance from the entrance to the temple ( Preah Khan is another walk through type of temple with everything aligned down the central corridor )  and then we walked through.  Again a stunning series of rooms with amazing detail in the carvings.  And as an added bonus for photography the sun was starting to shine into some of the rooms to add a warm glow to the stonework.  And there were only few people around too.

We walked out the east gate of Preah Khan ( we entered through the west ), and had a look out over the Jayatataka Baray.  This baray is obviously very shallow and has trees growing in it, but most of the trees look dead, so growing may not be the right word.

We jumped back in the tuk tuk and headed to our next temple: Neak Pean.  This water based temple is located on an island in the middle of Jayatataka Baray, and is accessed across a 300m long wooden boardwalk across the lake.  Again we had arrived before the hawkers had set up so it was a very peaceful walk across to the island.  The temple itself was a bit hard to take it as it consists of a series of 4 pools with a central sculpture and we could only access one end of one of the pools so we couldn't see any of the sculptures up close.  We had a brief chat to the guard who was holding onto a baby that belonged to a nearby sweeper / cleaner, and given that they both lived in a village just to the side of the temple the baby was probably her niece anyway.

We walked back to the shore at 8:30am and headed to Ta Som temple.  This temple is located at the east end of the Jayatataka Baray, at the opposite end to Prasat Preah Khan.  We had a wander through this small temple then back to the tuk tuk and onwards to the next one.  We are a bit fussy about where we spend our time and this temple was nothing special ( in comparison to the others we had seen ).

Next up on the large loop is East Mebon, which is located in the middle of what used to be the massive East Baray, but this has now dried up and is a large area used for rice growing.  The temple itself is still in the process of being rebuilt but was notable for the number of statues ( especially of elephants ) that were still intact.  Again after climbing over this temple we headed to the final stop on the loop: Prae Roup

We had been advised by someone we bumped into at East Mebon that the easy way to climb this temple was by the wooden steps on the south face, and not by the large stone staircase inside the entrance on the east side.  So we found the easy steps and climbed up to the large area on the top of the temple.  We had a look around and then headed back down ( we were planning to come back for sunset and sunrise so we would have plenty more time to explore this temple ) and got back in the tuk tuk at 9:40am. 

Again we were pretty weary by this stage so we headed back to the hotel and gave Dom the rest of the morning and afternoon off.  We rested, had a swim, slept a little, had some lunch at Tout les Jous across the road from the hotel, had a walk around town, rested a bit more.  I managed to slip at the bottom of the stairs to the bathroom area in our hotel room and bruised my arms and feet a bit, so I was then confined to the safety of bed for a bit.

Dom arrived for us again at 4:30pm and we headed back to Prae Ruup which, along with Phnom Bakheng, were the only 2 temples open for sunset.  Most others closed at 5pm or 5:30pm in the case of Angkor Wat. We climbed up to the top and waited with about 50 others for sunset, which again wasn't great due to the amount of cloud around the horizon, and then we headed back to the tuk tuk at 6:15pm. 

Dom took us on a detour on the way back to the hotel, down a new road which leads from the eastern part of town to the eastern side of the temples, through the local market ( located out near the Angkor Archaeological offices where we bought our passes ), which was pumping with stalls, food outlets and fairground rides.  The market seemed to be aimed at the locals as all the prices were in Riel and not US$, but there were a few white faces walking around.  We headed back to the hotel through the modern part of town and arrived at 7pm.

We went into town again for some dinner and then back to the hotel at 8pm.

Tomorrow we plan to revisit a couple of temples early to beat the crowds.


Tuesday 12 September, fine 32°

We were up again at 4:30am, and down for the tuk tuk at 5am, but Dom slept in and didn't arrive until 5:30am.  This meant we missed the sunrise we were hoping to get at Prae Roup ( we did see it on the drive out to the temples and it was nice ).  Nevermind.

We had a wander around Prae Roup anyway and then jumped back into the tuk tuk and headed to the East / Victory Gate of Angkor Thom for another look.  Dom showed us that you could walk up to the top of the wall that surrounds Angkor Thom, which as a road running along it, and gave a good viewpoint to look at the faces carved above the gate.

We jumped back in the tuk tuk and went to Ta Prohm at 7am. The gates weren't due to open until 7:30am so we grabbed a drink at the only stall that was open this early and ate some of our breakfast from the box that the hotel had provided for us today for the first time.  I also bought a small 3-headed elephant figurine that we had been looking for since Laos.

When the western gates opened at 7:30am we walked in with 5 other people ( a far cry from the hordes we had encountered on our first visit ) and we had a relaxed walk through the forest to the temple itself, and then around the temple.  We discovered some areas that we had missed on our first visit ( in our hurry to get out ), so we had a good look around this stunning temple with it's massive trees.  We walked back out to the eastern gates at 8:30am, and as we were walking along the path to the outer wall of the temple we met 3 tour tour groups heading in, so we were pretty happy with our timing.

We headed back to the hotel at 9am, and spent the rest of the day resting, sleeping etc, and catching up with admin.  We had lunch in town and a walk around some of the smaller streets and alleyways.  We have got used to Siem Reap and ( as long as you avoid the Saturday Night crowd ) it is a good base for the temples, with plenty of good restaurants and cafes.  

For sunset today we decided that we would head to Angkor Wat to catch the setting sun shining on the temple, and see how long we could stay past the 5:30pm closing time.  So back on the tuk tuk at 4:30pm and off to Angkor Wat, headed in and found our spots ( Liz at the NRP and me at the SRP ).  I got chatting to the people next to me who were there for 2 weeks from Belgium, and he was shooting with a Fujifilm camera as well so we chatted about gear and holidays as the sun sank behind us and lit up the temple. We got kicked out at 5:40pm ( at first the guards were polite, but they got more insistent the longer we stayed. We walked along the walkway and out through the gate just as the sun was setting and shining in through the doorway.  We found Dom for the last time on our temple tour ( he was asleep again ) and went back to the hotel at 6:30pm.  

We gave Dom a tip by giving him all the Riel we had collected in change since arriving in Cambodia ( about $US10 worth ) and arranged for him to pick us up to take us to the airport tomorrow ( we were paying through the Hotel for his last 3 days driving and also for the airport trip ) which was US$9

We went out for our last dinner in Cambodia ( Khmer Chicken Green Curry,  Beef Lak Lok and 2 beers, US$11.50 / NZ$14 ) and headed back to the hotel to pack.


So in summary we had an amazing, but tiring, 3 days in Angkor, and we were blown away by the scale of the temples and the whole area.  My enduring memory however will be sitting in the tuk tuk on the the long straight roads through the jungle, with the sun shining through the trees.  We will be back Angkor.



South East Asia 2017 - Day 36: Phnom Penh to Siem Reap


Saturday 9 September, fine, showers, thunderstorm 32°

We got up at 6:30am and headed down for breakfast, then upstairs to pack again.  We checked out at 8:15am and waited for our minibus to pick us up at 8:30am.  Once on in the minibus we carried on through town picking up a few extra people then got of at the Giant Ibis office next to the night market.  Our main bus arrived and we jumped on board, and left on time at 8:45am.  This bus was a VIP bus and had extra leg room, reclining seats, wifi and USB chargers. Nice.

We headed north past Wat Phnom then crossed over the Tonle Sap River and then north and east for a bit, then the road turned northwest and we headed to Siem Reap.  The entire trip was through flat flood plains with farm paddocks and rice fields.  We stopped for lunch at a restaurant  on the way where they did nice ham and cheese sandwich!

We arrived at 3:15pm in Siem Reap; the first impressions were of a big wide busy road, with 4-5 storey buildings, hotels and banks etc.  We then crossed the Siem Reap River and skirted the old town and stopped at the depot for Giant Ibis, in what used to be a sports ground carpark.  We grabbed our bags from the pile and talked to one of the waiting ' authorised ' tuk tuk drivers, and agreed a price with "Mr Clean" to take us to the Bopha Siem Reap Boutique Hotel.  

We headed off back across the river and into the quieter 'east side' area and found our hotel.  We had booked and paid for 4 nights through Expedia, and had all the normal confirmations, so it was a surprise to find the hotel gates shut and locked.  A quick conversation with the tuk tuk drivers nearby confirmed that the hotel was shut, permanently.  Thankfully the drivers suggested we try at the Terrasse des Elephants hotel, which was owned by the same people and see what was going on.

So Mr Clean took us to the edge of the old town to the Terrasse des Elephants and Liz went in while I stayed with the bags and tuk tuk. It turned out that our booking was in place at this hotel, even though we had not booked it, and no one thought that they should let us know that we weren't at the Bopha Siem Reap Boutiqe Hotel.  Nevermind, the price was the same and we were closer to town so we checked in.  We paid Mr Clean US$10 for his trouble ( but we deflected his requests to book him to take us around the temples over next few days, as we weren't sure what we were doing yet ) and went up to our room.

Wow, what a room.  The room was massive but was themed after the Bayon temple, so the walls were covered 1/2 way up with dark concrete tiles, and we had a replica of some of the Bayon faces in the room with us.  But the weirdest thing was that shower and basin were on 2 separate raised platforms within the main room, and they had a pond underneath them.  Thankfully the toilet had it's own room.  If the photos look a little dark it is because the room was a little dark.

We dropped our bags and went for a walk around the town of Siem Reap.  The main part of town primarily consisted of bars, restaurants, massage shops and trinket sellers, and ( as with Vang Vieng in Laos ) it made me wonder where the real town was.  We had a look around and then walked over the river to one of the markets ( there seems to be 3-4 markets, and they all say they are the night market... ) for a look, then back to Tous les Jours ( a bakery chain in Cambodia ) for a cold drink, and then back to our hotel after grabbing some supplies.  Siem Reap feels very much like a tourist town, but at least we have a choice of restaurants, and we aren't here to enjoy the town.

We organised our tuk tuk for the next 3 days.  We paid US$82 for a driver to pick us up for sunrise, then tour around the temples, bring us back to the hotel in the afternoon and then take us back for sunset, each day.  I think the receptionist at the hotel thought there was something seriously wrong with us because we wanted to do sunrise and sunset for 3 days in a row.

The standard tuk tuk temple tour consists of 2 loops of temples, normally covered over 2 days.  The smaller loop covers the most well known temples ( Angkor Wat, Angkor Tom, Bayon , Ta Prohm ) as well as a few others, with short distances between them ( in some cases they are across the road from each other ).  The larger loop is more driving with less temples, but they are the lesser know ones, and tend to be less conjested with tourists.  So our initial plan was to cover the small loop on day 1, the larger loop on day 2 and go back to temples we had liked or find new ones off the beaten track on day 3.

Having organised that we headed out for dinner at the Khmer Kitchen ( US$13 tonight, including a $4 jug of beer ) then to the ' official ' night market for a look at the same trinkets we had already seen, although Liz bought a laquerware bowl with a lid for US$4 ( after a haggle and a walk away ).  We headed back to the hotel at 8pm, and prepared for the early start in the morning.


South East Asia 2017 - Day 35: Phnom Penh


Friday 8 September, fine 32°

I got up at 5am and walked to Preah Sihanouk Boulevard to shoot the sunrise over the monuments there.  We noticed yesterday that there were Police and army forces out around the monuments ( probably due to the Thai Prime Minister being in town, also probably because the opposition party leader had just been arrested ), and this morning I disturbed a few of them snoozing in hammocks which they had tied between flag poles.

The sunrise was very nice but just as I was getting good shots of the Independence Monument they turned out the lights that were lighting it up, so I moved on to the Statue of the Father King Norodom Sihanouk to shoot that instead.  Again there were lots of people out walking and cycling ( anti-clockwise ) in the relative cool of the predawn air ( 27° ).

As I left the hotel this morning the night porter warned me about being careful with my bag and to hang on to it, and our tuk tuk driver to the hotel last night also warned us about hanging on to our bags.  This is the first time in our trip that we have had these warnings so I asked the night porter when I got back to the hotel at 6:30am what the risk was.  He said that thieves, mainly on scooters, would target tourists to snatch their bags, and he said it was his duty to warn people.  I was happy to be warned, but I am not sure whether the problem is worse in Phnom Penh than anywhere else, or if the locals are just more concerned for my safety than elsewhere.

We had breakfast at the hotel and then grabbed a tuk tuk at 8:15am to Wat Phnom ( literally 'hill temple' ).  The ride to the temple took us through the nice parts of Phnom Penh, with lots of embassies and banks etc.  There certainly seems to be money in Phnom Penh, every 3rd car is a Lexus or Range Rover.

We arrived at Wat Phnom and paid the US$1 entry fee for foreigners, and walked up the small hill to the temple.  We had a look around and then walked down again and walked down to the riverfront ( the Tonle Sap River just before it joins the Mekong ) and walked along Preah Sisowath Quay ( which looks like the heart of the backpacker accommodation area ), grabbed a drink at a cafe and watched people for a while.  

We walked south again, stopped briefly at a chemist to get some strapping for my busted finger, then carried on to the Royal Palace.  The entrance was all closed but someone told us that it was re-opening at 2pm so we decided to come back then.  We carried on walking through Wat Botum Park which brought us back to Preah Sihanouk Boulevard and then back to our hotel at 11am ( a nice 4km walk from Wat Phnom ).  We relaxed and went for a swim.

We still couldn't get the bus booking from Phnom Penh to Seam Reap to authorise on our credit cards through, so we got the hotel reception to make the booking for us with Giant Ibis for $US15 ea, leaving at 8:45am tomorrow ( we will be picked up at the hotel at 8:30am ).

We headed out again at 1pm , walking to a bakery / cafe on Preah Sihanouk Boulevard ( mmm croissants again ) then grabbed a tuk tuk to the Royal Palace.

We bought the tickets to enter the complex ( R40,000 / US$10ea ).  Liz had to buy a t-shirt as scarves were not permitted as a way of covering shoulders in the Palace so that was another US$3.

We walked around the complex ( a lot of the palace is occupied and therefore not open to the public ) and then walked through to the Silver Pagoda complex ( Preah Vihear Preah Keo Morakot ) and looked around that too.  The scale and detail in the buildings is stunning ( as always ).

We left at 3:15pm and grabbed a tuk tuk to the Aeon Mall, which is a big western style mall with a department store ( "Aoen" ), a supermarket and other chain stores.  We grabbed a drink at Costa Coffee, grabbed some supplies ( including NZ apples ), and looked at the price of NZ cheese and butter ( US$25 for 2kg and US$2.90 for 227g respectively ).  We headed back to the hotel by tuk tuk at 4pm for a rest.

Out again at 5pm, tuk tuk to the Royal Palace for sunset.  There seemed to be a bit of a fair going on in the park in front of the Palace, with food vendors and people gathering for a picnic and playing games.  I am not sure if this is normal or a Friday night thing.  We also noticed that other parks that we passed on the way in the tuk tuk were busy with people when they had been deserted during the day.

We took photos and watched people until about 6:30pm then grabbed a tuk tuk back to the hotel, then out for dinner to a restaurant at the end of our street called "Flavours", where we had the usual great meal for a cheap price ( US$13 for a pad thai, a chicken curry and a couple of US75c beers ).  We were talking over dinner about the quality of food we had had through the trip so far, and we could only come up with 1 dinner we had in Bangkok that was disappointing, while the rest of the food had been outstanding.

We also talked about how surprised we were by Phnom Penh and how nice a city it was, with a nice feel to it and more friendly people.

We walked back to the hotel at 7:30pm, getting ready for another ( last for the trip ) bus journey tomorrow to Siem Reap and Angkor Wat.  We are both looking forward to the next few days, despite me now having a cold and a very sore finger still.

South East Asia 2017 - Day 34: Ho Chi Minh to Phnom Penh


Thursday 7 September, fine 32°

We got up at 6am and then grabbed breakfast at 6:30am,  back to the room for the familiar routine of packing.  We checked out at 7:15am and walked for 15 minutes to the offices of the Mekong Express bus company, where our bus to Phnom Penh was due to leave at 8:30am.  We exchanged our vouchers for tickets ( NZ$40 for the 2 of us on the bus, which included them dealing with our visa/passports, but not the fee for the visa into Cambodia ).  The bus arrived and we jumped on and left at 8:30am.  The bus was only half full and was reasonably spacious, and we were promised wifi once we got to the Cambodia border. 

We headed north through HCMC, passed the airport and finally out of the suburbs at 10am, and then through farmlands and a couple of towns to the Cambodian border at 11am.  We had handed our passports to the helper on the bus as we travelled out of HCMC, so at the Vietnam side of the border we waited a few minutes in the 'departures' hall for him to arrive and hand us our passports again, then file through and get stamped out of Vietnam.

We then got back on the bus at the other end of the building and drove the 50m to the Cambodian inwards immigration building.  This time there was a longer wait while the helper went and got the Visas on Arrival for us all at a seperate building, then joined us in the waiting room, handed out our passports and we went in through the immigration desks ( with the usual photos and fingerprints taken ).  We were back on the bus in Cambodia at 11:30am.  Short and sweet 1/2 hour process.

We drove a short distance and stopped at a roadside restaurant for lunch ( I think the bus drivers were the only ones who ate anything ( which we assume was their payment by the restaurant for bringing us to them ), the rest of us just got drinks and stood around using the free wifi ).

We got back on the road at 12:00pm and drove through the flat plains of Cambodia.  As far as we could see in any direction was flat land, with large areas water, except for the occasional single hill or rock poking up from the plain.  The road and houses either side of it seemed to have been raised up on platforms of earth to keep them above the water level, which was high due to it being wet season.

About half way between the border and Phnom Penh we crossed the Mekong River on a new bridge. This is the first time we have seen the Mekong since Vientiane, and now puts us back on the western side of Mekong for the first time since we left Thailand.  The river at this point is about 500m wide, although at this time of year it is hard to tell where the edges are.

We carried on across the plains and into Phnom Penh at 2:30pm.  We drove through the busy traffic to O'Russey Market ( I am not sure why they chose this as the drop off place as it took about 10 minutes to manoeuvre our way into the carpark, which is not really designed for buses).

We got off the bus at about 3pm and grabbed a tuk tuk ( which have a different design in Cambodia to what we have seen previously: they are a motorbike with a trailer attached, photos to come ), agreed a price of US$4 to take us to our hotel ( "Home Chic Hotel" ) on 282nd St and off we went.  We arrived about 10 minutes later and checked in.  This room was very nice and we looked down on the pool at the front of the hotel.

In Cambodia they use a combination of US$ and Riel, with US$ being the main currency ( even the ATM's give out US$ ), but for anything less than US$1 then Riel is used.  So when buying something at a shop often the change would be in US$ and Riel.  

We dropped our bags in our room and went for a walk around the area. There is quite a lot of construction going on nearby with new hotels and apartment buildings being built, but the area felt very modern and, apart from the lack of footpaths, could have been in London or SydneyWe walked to acoffee shop in the next block and grabbed a drink.  We walked back to the hotel and had a planning meeting for the rest of our trip.

We were trying to book a bus to Siem Reap in a couple of days time, but we were having trouble getting our credit card to authorise properly ( even though it was the same card and website we had used previously, ) so we booked our hotel in Siem Reap ( "Bopha Siem Reap Boutique Hotel" ) and a flight from Siem Reap to Bangkok for the day before our flight out of Bangkok to Singapore.  We will have 3 full days in Siem Reap to see as much of the Angkor Wat temple complex as possible, so we decided to fly back to Bangkok to avoid spending the day on another bus.  We would try to book the Phnom Penh / Siem Reap bus later to see if our card would go through.  So apart from that bus trip we are now fully booked for the rest of our SE Asia loop back to Bangkok.

We left the hotel at 5:30pm and walked to the Independence Monument near the hotel to take some photos and then carried on walking down Preah Suramarit Boulevard to the Nagaworld Casino ( gambling is permitted in Cambodia, unlike most other SE Asian countries ), and made a small donation to the Cambodian tax coffers.

We grabbed a tuk tuk back to the hotel ( US$4 ) at 7pm and grabbed dinner in the hotel restaurant.